GROUP+6

Tie-Dye Shirt



GRP 6

=**PINEAPPLE WINE**=

**INGREDIENTS:**

 * 1 pineapple chop
 * 1 kg sugar
 * 2 tsp yeast
 * 10 cups of water

STEPS:

 * 1) Boil 10 cups of water along with the chopped pineapple and 1 kg sugar
 * 2) When the mixture is boiling, add the yeast
 * 3) Mix well
 * 4) Store it in a container
 * 5) Stir the mixture once every two days
 * 6) Strain the juice after 21 days

=Soap Making=

Equipment Needed to Make Soap

 * Use only stainless steel, enamel-ware, glass, Pyrex, or plastic in the soap making process. Never use aluminum**
 * Large enamel ware or stainless steel pot
 * Large mixing bowl or container made of stainless steel, glass, enamel-ware, or Pyrex for lye solution
 * Scale that weighs in ounces
 * 2 Glass covered thermometers
 * Several large, heavy duty plastic spoons
 * Plastic containers for weighing water, fats, and lye
 * Molds for soap - commercial molds or you can just use plastic food type containers
 * Trash bags to cover counter
 * Stick blender
 * Stove
 * Sink
 * Apron, safety glasses, rags or paper towels

Ingredients for Soap

 * Water
 * Fats - white, hydrogenated vegetable oil, like Crisco
 * Lye ( found at plumbing supply stores or use Red Devil brand found in many supermarkets)
 * Sugar
 * Coloring agents (if desired) - shredded crayons, commercially available coloring agents, herbs
 * Essential oils - do yourself a favor - don't use fragrance oils as the scent does not last

How to Make Soap

 * Dissolve sugar in a small amount of hot water (set aside and use when you weigh the water)
 * Weigh 42 ounces Crisco (or similar product) into container. Weigh the container first and adjust the scale to zero.
 * Place Crisco in large stainless steel or enamel-ware pot on low heat
 * Weigh 17 ounces of water (including the sugar water). Weigh empty container first and adjust the scale to zero
 * Weigh lye, weighing container first, and pour the lye slowly into the water. Ensure adequate ventilation by opening 2 windows. Cover your nose and mouth. Stand slightly away from the mixture as fumes will rise. Gently stir until crystals have dissolved
 * Measure canola, caster, and coconut oils separately (again, wight the empty container first) Add to the fats in the pot
 * Use a separate container for the lye, the water, and the fats
 * Allow fats and lye solutions to come to the same temperature - about 110 degrees F. this can be tricky. The lye solution takes some time to cool. If one of the mixtures is still warm and the other is near 110 degrees, place the container of the warmer ingredients in a cool water bath in the sink until the mixture cools.
 * When both mixtures have reached 110 F, slowly pour the lye solution int the fats
 * Mix with stick blender until the mixture reaches the __trace__ stage. That is when you drag a spoon through the mixture and it leaves a path. It's kind of like pudding.
 * Add coloring agents and herbs
 * Add essential oils
 * Stir
 * Pour the thickened mixture into a mold that has been greased with olive oil. You can use a large, rectangular Tupperware type container, a long wooden mold, or individual molds.
 * Lay plastic wrap over the top
 * Cover with a towel
 * Set aside for 3 days
 * Remove soap from the container. Slice into bars
 * Store the bars of soap on a rack where they can get good air ventilation. **Soap must be cured for 30 days before use. Do not use soap before it is cured.**

Homemade Soap - Curing the Soap Quickly

 * Scoop soap mixture into prepared mold. Prepare the mold by greasing the bottom and sides with olive oil.
 * Drop the filled mold onto table and run a knife through it to remove air pockets
 * Cover with plastic wrap
 * Cover with towels
 * Allow to cool for 6 - 24 hours
 * Cut into bars. Wetting the knife with hot water makes cutting easier.
 * Cure for 3 - 4 days. I often wait a week so that it hardens off
 * Trim off the edges. The sliced soap looks nicer
 * Use the trimmings to make balls of soap or remill
 * Set out the soap to cure on a rack (not aluminum). Let air curculate.

Coloring Agents
Do not use food color. Uncolored bars are white. Here is a list of some coloring agents
 * turmeric - golden, more makes it orange
 * French clay - green (an astringent)
 * sage - dull green
 * cocoa - brown to very dark brown
 * coffee- brown (good for a super-cleaning bar) add as part of the lye solution
 * powdered commercial or liquid pigments for soap making - the color of your choice, available at some craft stores or online
 * ground calendula petals - yellow
 * paprika - orange - don't use hot paprika
 * cinnamon - reddish brown
 * oxides - inorganic colors, make sure you buy cosmetic grade (they dry darker than when first added)
 * Herbs - produce nice flecks, very pretty - sage, thyme, chamomile flowers, sea kelp granules, dried orange rind, mint leaves, herbal teas (steep 3 tea bags in water, cool, and use as part of the water/lye solution), oatmeal (an exfoliate that soothes dry skin, use about 1/2 cup)

Candle Making This project does require a few safety/mess preventions.
 * Step 1Caution **

 *Wax is **very** hard to clean up from counters. In order to help with cleanup, use as few tools as possible, and cover your work space in newspaper.

 *Wax is flammable, for this reason, it's very important that you don't use any setting higher than medium on your stove, and use a thermometer if possible.

 Wax's flash point is 300 degrees F, don't let it's temperature exceed 250 degrees.

Step 2 What you'll need

 * Wax
 * Wicks
 * Crayons
 * Scent
 * Olive oil (Optional)
 * Double boiler (Or two nesting pots)
 * Knife
 * Molds (I used a soda can, and a dixie cup)
 * Mixing Spoon

= = == As the wax melts, prepare your molds. Both of my molds were disposable and tear able. If you are using something like glass as a mold, rub the inside with oil on a paper towel, this will make it easier to remove the candle. ==

Step 4 Additives
I made my candles yellow, and vanilla scented. For my half pound of wax, I put in half a yellow crayon, and a splash or two of vanilla.

Step 5 Wicks
Cut off a piece of wick (cotton string) that's about an inch longer than your candle will be. Dip this into the wax, and then take it out. Use two paper towels, tongs, or anything else to pull the string taught while it dries for the most part...now your wick will be straight. You can put the wicks in the fridge to harden while you finish the candles, if you'd like.

Step 6 Pour the Wax
Use the double boiler to pour wax into each mold, then stick the candles into your fridge. This will speed up the cooling process. Once they are starting to firm up, and the top of the candle looks firm, use a tooth pick to poke into the center of the candle. You'll notice that the inside of the candle is still melted. Position the wick straight up, and so that it touches the bottom. Melt a small piece of wax over the wick's hole to seal it. Leave the candle in the fridge until fully hardened. When they are hardened again, either peel off the mold, or slip out the candle (depending on your mold)

Step 7 Clean up
Wax spills are inevitable. One of the best ways to clean them up is to lay a brown bag over the spill, and use an iron set on high to melt the wax onto the paper bag...voila!

Your tools are going to be a **huge ** pain to clean up. My only suggestions are use few, use hot water, and use a rough brush to scrub it off.